What's in a Suit?

What's in a Suit?

Men often think that all suits are the same and that any will make youlook "smart". The reality is that there are qualities to a suit interms of cut, fabric, and fabrication, that will give you addedauthority and style or instead reduce your rank.

The original purpose of a suit was to indicate your authority. The suitdeveloped from traditional military uniform and identified your rankaccording to the colour, fastenings and fabric used. The "blazer" wascreated to impress Queen Victoria upon her visit to the HMS Blazer–a British naval vessel. The use of brass buttons upon theblazer was unique and made it distinct from the usualuniform. Certain variations of the suit were used as formalwear for occasions; the tail coat was worn for dinner (now often wornby waiters at expensive restaurants). The dinner or smoking jacket wasactually worn after dinner while men retired to the study for a cigarand to discuss politics, business and the like. The morning coat, nowused for formal weddings, was originally used for horse-riding.

These days, the suit is used to mark an occasion or for formality inbusiness. With the advent of retail stores, the suits thatwere traditionally made by hand are now also available to purchase inthe same day from a store. There are three types of suit –bespoke, made-to-measure, and off-the-peg.

Bespoke suits

are made by hand and available from traditional tailors,mostly only in cities. The London bespoke tailors Gieves and Hawkes onSavile Row, the main locale for tailors, has been around fortwo centuries and sells a bespoke suit for Ł1000/$1850upwards. The bespoke suit has a hand stitched lining and collar thatstitched over the knee of the tailor, creating its curve. They are made of quality pure wool's and the more you wear them, themore they naturally adjust to your body shape, acting as a second skin.Specific measurements are taken to ensure the suit fits the wearer likea glove. Bespoke suits are chosen by the elite and royalty and cater toa small but wealthy client base.

Made-to-measure suits

are found at the local town tailors or as analternative at bespoke tailors and are available to fit your upper orlower body size. You can choose the fabric you want and thequality of fabric – pure wool or mix. The suit is then placedon order with the tailor and made for you from a standard tailorblock. The benefit of a made-to-measure is that you canchoose a suit to match your colour palette and you can choose adifferent size for your upper or lower body, in affect like separates,to ensure you have the best fit.

Recommended: Jake & Ed's, 314 Mary Street, Waycross GA 31501.(912) 283 2545. Ask for the owner, Steve.

Off-the-Peg suits

are available to buy off the hanger at a retailstore. The suit is available in one set size and depending on the typeof store can be adjusted for your trouser length. Off the peg suits canvary enormously in quality depending on the type of retail store. Somestores use low quality fabrics and dummy buttons without a true cuff.

High Budget: Dolce & Gabanna, Ermenegildo Zegna, ArmaniCollezioni
Middle Budget: Theory, Ben Sherman, Nordstrom
Low Budget: JC Penny, Target

Suit Shapes

There are three suit shapes:
Classic – slightly tapered in the waist, medium lapel, 2 or 3buttons e.g. Armani Collezioni. Suits a less extreme body shape.
European – wider on the shoulder, typically 2 buttons e.g.Hugo Boss. Suits a broader chest or casual look.
British – more tapered at waist, fitted and often doublebreasted e.g. Paul Smith. Suits a broader shoulder and sharper look.

Classic

European

British

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©2007 Sarah Whittaker[www.thewardrobeshrink.com].
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Sarah Whittaker has been featured in numerous newspapers and magazines worldwide, and writes The Wardrobe Shrink Newsletter full of the latest fashion trends, celebrity style and honest image advice.

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